I
was working out-of-town, about two hours to the south in the city of
Nakhon Si Thammarat. It was a gray Friday afternoon and had been
threatening rain all day but none seemed to be forthcoming. I was
staying in one of those boring highway hotels which are surrounded by
nothing but the outskirts of town, usually made up of auto mechanics
and car dealerships.
I
sat in my room, editing a paper for a coworker from the university.
It was taking much longer than I anticipated, but I wanted to get it
done so I could move on my usual out-of-town recreation:
uninterrupted reading. I had a huge book I’d brought down on
violence a friend of mine had been exhorting me to read for months
and while the hotel bed wasn’t soft, it was at least capacious and
had a decent reading light. It was Friday night after all.
When
I finished with the paper, it was time for dinner. My boss from the
Embassy had invited me to eat and I was glad for the invitation,
given that, on my own, I would’ve found myself wandering up the
highway in the dark, searching for a 7-11. Just across the road there
was a tea shop of the variety common in the southern provinces. This
one was done up in a ‘retro’ fashion and had old bikes and
lunchboxes all over the place, but the tables and the tiles were
undoubtably brand new, white and almost glowing. I got a small plate
of fried vegetables which was quite bland and ate it with two orders
of rice and chilies.
When
we finished eating, we all went out into the parking lot for a
moment. As we talked, the sky rumbled, but still nothing came of it.
It was dark and the night had relieved the dullness of the
cloud-congested sky. Outside a city, night looks the same whether the
sky is clear or cloudy and the headache induced by the heavy gray
weather, like wearing a damp sweater, began to fade.
I
went back to my room and was about to settle into my book when I
noticed a message on my phone. Gina had sent me a video of a little
white and fawn-colored dog jumping up on our bedroom window (which is
on the ground floor) and licking in the way gentle dogs do when they
are excited. The text accompanying the video said something about how
it was storming hard back home and this dog had shown up on our
doorstep. She had a collar with a little bell and looked to be just
out of puppyhood. I called home to hear the whole story. As often
happens in these cases, Gina had tried to resist the dog’s charms,
but her will was breaking down, as the dog, or Spazzy as we started
calling her after her slightly manic behavior, was continually
circling the apartment, going from our door, to our balcony and to
our bedroom window and back to our door. “It must’ve been the
storm that scared her,” I suggested, but Gina told me that it had
been pouring rain but there’d been no thunder or lightening and in
Southern Thailand in October, pouring rain was nothing unusual.
“It’s
as if she’s chosen me,” Gina typed (our connection hadn’t been
good enough to talk and now we were texting). “Like she just
decided that she wants to live here with us.”
“Oh
great!” I responded in mock sarcasm. I try to be cold on the issue
of developing affections for dogs; I know what it leads to. It
doesn’t take long before both parties are attached. Dogs are
extremely good and wriggling themselves into our stray affections. We
were only a month from our departure date and we had enough to do. I
didn’t want to be encumbered with the emotional weight of leaving a
dog behind as well. “Well, just don’t let her in the house,” I
warned.
“I
already did,” Gina told me and I couldn’t blame her. I would’ve
done the same thing. Who wouldn’t on a rainy night all alone when a
little rascal chooses your doorstep for their temporary
shelter. I sighed, but it ended unintentionally in a chuckle. I hoped
this ‘spazzy’ would still be there when I got home the next day.
Saturday,
there was a lot of traffic on the road and the weather was back to
being dim and high up on the barometer. I was having reoccurring
headaches, the kind that hit just behind the eyes. I sat at the back
of the bus, trying to read, watching the dim jungle speed by thinking
the varied shapes made it worse. North American deciduous forest (or
coniferous) is much more uniform. When you speed through it on a car,
it undulates, much like watching the ebb and flow of a tide. In
contrast, the jungle lashes out in ragged banana leaves and exploding
coconut palms. Its beautiful to walk past or bike through, but not at
all suited for the rapid monotony of car travel. It’s like things
keep jumping out of the horizon and exploding against the deep smoke
gray skies.
I
walked home from the station, glad for the air. As heavy as it might
have been, it was an improvement over what I’d been breathing on
the bus. I was happy no one ran up to me at the bus station demanding
‘where you go?’ It’s really no big deal, but imagine moving
somewhere, living there for months and every time you drove up to
your house, your neighbor popped out and approached you saying
‘Welcome, welcome to the neighborhood! If you need any help finding
anything please let me know!’ Initially, you’d be willing to
dismiss this neighbor for his or her eccentricity, but after a few
months, you’d want to scream “I know where things are! Dammit, I
live here!” As this is certainly the case for me, I was very glad
to not be accosted by bus or tax touts at the station.
Gina
was out when I got home and there was no dog in sight. I unpacked my
things and showered, deciding how I would while away the weekend. I
heard a little bell jangling outside and went out to look, but a
family was moving in and there were bags and stuff all over. I didn’t
want to go out and try to see if there was a dog around somewhere. I
turned back to the computer. A tolerable-looking movie was playing in
English at the movie theater. I checked the times and then fell into
my recent vice of booking flights on the internet. I’ve probably
got about 15 flights booked for the next few months. You’d think I
decided to stop every place I could between here and California and
then, with the flights, there are hostels and hotels to book. I’ve
had to make a separate folder in my email box for all the things I’ve
got booked.
Gina
came home after an hour. I told her I hadn’t seen ‘Spazzy’ any
where, but that I’d heard a jangling bell. “Oh, then that was
her,” she responded in that tone of voice parents use to talk about
their kids who are ‘a handful’ a mock impatience. The same way
people who always talk about their job complain that it takes up all
their time—it’s obvious that they love how it takes up their
time. They wouldn’t know what to do with their time otherwise.
Almost
on cue, Spazzy came running up. We’d been talking outside and she
must’ve heard Gina’s voice. She came up, stopped, set her whole
hindquarters waggling and proceeded toward us in this joyous fashion.
I sat down to meet her and she was immediately all over me, whining
at her own happiness.
After
that, she stayed by our door. A few times she managed to sneak past
us into the apartment, but it wasn’t too hard to lead her back out
and she didn’t seem to mind being by the door. We keep our bikes at
the end of the hallway, just about six feet from the door and Spazzy
seemed very comfortable back there with our bikes. The hallways are
all open air, so she was out of the sun, but it’s not like she was
inside. Gina put a rug down for her and I put a cup of peanut butter
out and a bowl of water, she never touched these things other than to
lap at the water once or twice, more out of excitement that thirst.
The rug came back in (after being washed) and the peanut butter was
tossed out.
Despite
my happiness at this new friend, I was concerned. In three weeks we’d
be moving out and this dog was becoming very attached to us, as we
were to her. All weekend, we felt guilty going anywhere. Spazzy would
follow us out to the street, trot after us a little and then sit
there and watch out bikes disappear into the distance with a forlorn
look on her face. Over the years, I’ve learned to ignore such
looks. But I’ve also learned I am an emotional person and that I
don’t forget the dogs I meet, no matter how incidental. A good
portion of our conversation at home revolves around stray dogs we’ve
met in places like Uruguay and Romania. Sweet, frolicsome dogs who
acted as ambassadors, posed for pictures and made the places they
lived so much more memorable. It only takes a few hours to get
attached and Gina is even worse, for her, it’s a few minutes and
she’s sold, already talking about future baths she’s going to
give the dog. So while I liked having Spazzy around, I saw how our
relationship was complicated.
I’d
also been in a similar situation in Armenia when a dog had befriended
me and as a result, I think he was killed. There’s nothing more
heartbreaking to me than when an animal has come to trust all of
humankind through the actions of an individual and then willingly
goes to the slaughter thinking all people must be as loving and
gracious. This scenario also casts such a treacherous light on
humanity in general, it’s difficult not to feel sick. For example, listen to the story of Lucy the Chimp. The lesson from this story is:
Any animal who comes to trust people who is not also protected by
them, will be killed by people. We were unable to protect Spazzy,
after all. She wasn’t our dog. We couldn’t take her with us, I
already had 15 flights booked and no apartment to go back to. What
could we do with her? We loved to see her every morning and it was
comforting to peek out the window and see her sleeping by our bikes,
but we couldn’t protect her. We weren’t even willing to let her
in our apartment for more than a few minutes.
All
weekend Spazzy hung out by our door. We’d leave the apartment and
she’d go wild with excitement. We’d bend down and say hi before
taking off on our bikes, leaving her standing in the middle of the
street, watching us go that forlorn way dogs do—looking at you like
you’re never coming back. But when we returned, she’d come
running down the stairs of the apartment to greet us, beside herself
with joy and butt waggling. I was happy to note that the people who
cleaned the apartment, didn’t seem to mind that she was there.
They’d smiled at her and even put out some rice in a place where
she’d find it. When I went to pay the rent Saturday evening, the
security guard chuckled and pointed to the dog. Talking to the
landlady, I was charged with the impossible task of explaining (in
Thai) that the dog was not ours; She’d shown up on our
doorstep one night, but we cared for her and enjoyed her company. I
didn’t want to give the impression we were keeping a dog (forbidden
in the lease) but I didn’t want her to think we were anything but
happy with Spazzy’s presence. I repeated the only Thai words I
could to articulate this sentiment: suay (beautiful) and di
(good). The landlady smiled and nodded her head, not
understanding a word.
Sunday
morning, I went out to hang up the laundry and Spazzy followed me to
the back of the building. There’s a banana tree growing back there
and a plot of dirt about 12’ x 6’. While I hung the clothes on
the rack, Spazzy frolicked in the little bit of the natural world our
tile and concrete apartment complex provided. She dug into the dirt
in that scrambling way dogs do, so that you think they must be after
something until they stop and look up at you with a big smile as if
to say ‘that was fun, huh?’ before returning again to the
digging.
When
I came back in, I suggested getting a leash for Spazzy. She’d
obviously attached herself to us and it seemed cruel to subject her
to a life of lying under our bikes, listening to our voices through
the window. Occasionally permitting ourselves to be seen as we went
out, taking our bikes and her house with us. She could come with us
when we went to walk in the evenings at least, but Gina reminded me
that if we got a leash for her, she’d be our dog, but, as far as
she was concerned, she already was our dog; it didn’t matter what
we thought. We took our walk that evening without her, but she was
there wagging her tail when we got back and it was hard to feel bad
about anything when she welcomed you back so graciously every time.
...
Monday
is my longest day at work. My afternoon class doesn’t start until
1:30 and goes until 4:30. At 5:30, I have an after-school reading
group and this week we were going to the library to donate books I’d
ordered. Before my afternoon class, I sent Gina a message, asking
about her day and how Spazzy was doing. She told me that when she’d
come home Spazzy had been gone but had returned after about an hour,
her little bell jingling as she came up to the door.
When
I’d finished everything and was finally preparing to go it was
nearly 7 pm. The campus was soaked in the oily blackness that follows
a rainy evening. The frogs sang in the swales of trees and swampy
areas of campus. It would’ve been peaceful, but a lot of students
were out on their motorbikes going to eat and the sound of their
engines tore at the blank calm of the night. I was packing up to
leave when I noticed a text. 20 minutes earlier, Gina had written:
Dog catchers are here :( I started writing back immediately
and then had to stop. What could I say? We couldn’t tell them to go
away, could we? She wasn’t our dog. I edited my message of
action into one of condolence, but added that if they seemed like
they were going to euthanize her, to put her in the house and say she
was ours.
The
bike ride home, is usually my favorite part of the day, but I was
distracted by the zooming motorcycle lights coming out of the wet
darkness like multiple trains chasing me out of tunnels and the
thought that some bumbling dog catchers were probably enacting all
kinds of misery on Spazzy and my girlfriend at the moment, as I knew
Gina wouldn’t just be able to let them take the dog. I had also
just read about Tillerson’s refusal to recognize Kurdistan’s
independence referendum and I was feeling upset to think how easily
humans betray each other; how, underneath the veneer of brotherhood
and cooperation, it’s really all about selfish motives. This
Darwinian precept is really quite awful when you think about it. I
guess some people have no problem stepping on the faces of others to
get to the top and then, from the top, they rule us. We submit to
them via the ‘weakness’ of ourselves being unwilling to
step on anyone’s face. ‘What a lousy way of doing things,’ I
thought, riding through the rubber plantation, listening to the
frogs, hearing the motorbikes come racing, burning through the
darkness after me.
I
got home and my heart sank to see that the space by Gina’s bike was
empty.
The
apartment seemed empty when I came in. Gina was in the spare bedroom.
I knew the situation must’ve been painful for her, but I almost
didn’t want to hear about it. I already felt sad with impotent
anger at the inherent selfish nature of humans. Gina sat down and
told me what happened with tears still in her eyes.
“These
guys were total morons, like dog catchers from an old comedy waving
their nets around and falling over. They came up here and started
jabbing at Spazzy with a stick. When she ran out to the backyard,
they got chucks of concrete from somewhere and started throwing them
at her. I went to the back window and told them to stop, but they
just grinned moronically at me and chuckled. At one point, one of
them tried to grab her and, of course, she tried to bite him; they’d
just been hitting her with a stick and throwing concrete at her. She
got away and ran off. These guys were so inept, you wouldn’t’ve
believed it. They went looking for her. They couldn’t find her.
They even wanted to come in here to see if I had her. I was so happy.
She’d gotten away! I kept thinking, ‘yay, Spazzy! Run!’ and
then, her bell tinkled. I thought she’d run off but she’d been
hiding way back behind the banana tree. Those morons never would’ve
found her if it wasn’t for that damn bell on her collar but when
they heard it both they practically jumped up and made an ‘ooooh’
noise. You could almost see the lightbulbs lighting up over their dim
features.”
She
stopped to wipe away the tears that were sliding down her cheeks. I
didn’t want to press her, but I was so indignant, I almost needed
to know what they’d done. “Bastards,” I muttered.
“You
know,” she continued, ignoring the tears, “those people that just
moved in came down and they were speaking in Thai, but I know they
were saying she’d peed up there somewhere. If she would’ve peed
anywhere it would’ve been here! It’s like they all wanted to come
out against her.
“The
bumbling dog catchers went to get her again with rocks and I yelled
from the window at them to stop. I couldn’t stand to watch them
hurt her anymore. I went out and she ran right up to me. I bent down
and she jumped into my arms. The poor baby. She was shaking and I
could feel how fast her little heart was beating. She was so scared.”
She broke off again here to wipe some more tears away. God, it was
heartbreaking. Why did this shit always happen when I was at work?
She continued.
“I
carried her over to the landlady’s office. She had her sister on
the phone, the one that speaks English. She kept asking if Spazzy was
our dog. I told her she wasn’t, but that I wasn’t going to give
her to these guys if they were going to kill her. They’d already
treated her so terribly, it wasn’t hard to imagine them just
clubbing her down somewhere. They really seemed to have no regard for
her life at all. One of the oafish dog catchers kept saying something
like ‘my home, my home’ and pointing to her and then to himself.
This was the same guy who’d been throwing big chunks of concrete at
her a minute ago. I mean, c’mon; she’s a small dog! If one of
those pieces would’ve hit her she would’ve been dead already! He
reached out to grab her away from me and, of course, she tried to
bite him. I showed him. I said, ‘you’ve got to pet her; you’ve
got to make her comfortable with you.’ But you could tell he was
afraid of her. Just as afraid of her as she was of him. He
wouldn’t even touch her.
“They
hadn’t even brought a car with them. Some dogcathers, huh? I mean,
who comes to catch a dog—assuming your going to have to take it
somewhere after you’ve caught it—on motorbikes?”
“Did
they have a little cage or something?” I asked.
“No,
they didn’t have anything.” We both shook our heads. “So the
dog catcher leaves and I stay on the steps to the office with Spazzy,
petting her and she started to relax. I would’ve taken her and run,
but the other dog catchers were all still there and the landlady.
Spazzy was all splayed out on the ground, letting me rub her belly
when the guy who left, came tearing in with his truck, skidding
around all over the place. I guess his manhood had been insulted and
so he thought he rev his truck to make up for it. I’m like ‘way
to go, moron, I just got her all calmed down,’ God, how stupid can
you be? Spazzy was all freaked out again. Totally scared and not
wanting to get anywhere near this guy.”
“So
did they take her?” I butted in, impatiently, hoping that maybe
Spazzy had gotten away again.
“Yeah,
I had to put her in the back of the truck. I kept hoping she’d jump
out and run, but she just stood there, looking at me. Waiting for me
to help her and I abandoned her.”
“You
didn’-
“Yes
I did! She came to me that night for help and look what it got
her. They drove off with her in the back and the entire time she
watched me, like she was hoping I was going to save her somehow.”
Neither
of us said anything for awhile, unable to think of anything but this
picture. She’d looked at us every time we’d ridden off on our
bikes. We knew the look well.
I
coaxed Gina out for a walk after her story and I ranted and raved.
There are times when it’s not possible to tolerate humanity much
less appreciate it. Religious people must find such moments very
trying. It was eating me up, too, but there was nothing I could do.
We bought a beer and walked through the night, trying to understand
the point of it all, all the pain and suffering. What’s it for? So
we can claim a reward for enduring it at the end? So we can learn
from it? So we can perpetuate it? Those options are all nauseating.
Spazzy’s removal ostensibly to keep the apartment clean and
orderly, America deciding Kurdistan’s fate to keep it as an
Isis-fighting pawn, the guy in my neighborhood who grimaces every
time he sees me all these things were conflating in my mind. I could
see no good in the world not seriously tainted by the ubiquity of
human unfeeling. Luckily, we entered an area where some ficus trees
hung over the road and were dangling their roots all over the place.
There were no motorbikes racing by in that moment so we could
actually hear the frogs chirping. I listened and walked through the
bead curtain of hanging roots and I told Gina that what happened
couldn’t possibly have been her fault. It was a lousy scenario, but
one that couldn’t have been prevented. Experience has taught me to
be wary, but even I didn’t see it coming. There’s stray dogs all
over here. No one seems to mind them. The king, the king that
everyone loves so much even wrote a book about a stray dog saying,
‘you know what’ these animals have dignity, too. Treat them
accordingly.’ Who’d think you’d even have to write a book like
that! Anyway, even I hadn’t thought about trying to get Spazzy
another place to live. It was pleasant having her around and we’re
people, frail like everyone else. “They probably only drove to the
other side of town and dropped her off. I wouldn’t be surprised if
she turned back up tomorrow,” I exclaimed and we turned back home
for the night.
Every
morning on the way to work (which is ‘on the other side of town’)
I look for her in the face of every dog I pass. At night, when I come
home, I look for her at the end of the hall by our bikes. Even right
now, I am listening for her bell and I’ll listen until we leave.
Good
night, Spazzy.
The title of this entry is a reference to another story of animal abuse, famous as anti-vivisection propaganda.
"What We Did to Rodney"