Last
night, MDC was playing. A band that I’ve been reading about since I
was about 14. I never had any of their records, but I knew of them
and I always meant to get around to listening to them. Apparently,
the name stands for Millions of Dead Cops which was incredibly
cool-sounding to a high school punk kid. It was something I would’ve
liked on a shirt. But I never bought the record. I never asked
someone to make me a tape. I never even heard MDC.
Nearly
20 years after I’d first
heard of MDC, I was living in
Thailand, teaching English classes at a provincial university with a
government program when one day, online, I noticed something.
“Hey,”
I called out from the living room, which was really just a table that
had been there when we’d moved in and a mattress we’d put on the
floor to simulate a couch.
“What?”
Gina answered from the other mattress in the bedroom. It was so hot
in that place that, often, you found yourself having to go lie down
in the middle of the day to keep from passing out. Also, we took a
lot of cold showers. I say cold, but the water was only cold for the
first five seconds then it warmed up, almost like the heat from your
body had traveled up the flow, into the showerhead, down into the
tank and heated the water. It was so hot it felt like that could
happen.
“There’s
this new venue in Arcata. Looks like they put on some good shows.”
I yelled from my place on the floor mattress.
Arcata was where we met and where Gina was born. For years she’d
been trying to get me to move back there, but I could never quite
convince myself that there was anything worth moving back for. I
liked Arcata, but it was small and largely dominated by the
university that makes up nearly the whole eastern side of the town.
We’d lived there once before and I’d worked at an
industrial-output level flower farm. For a few months, it had been
alright, but it wasn’t something I wanted to spend any significant
amount of time doing. The way I saw it, there just weren’t many
options in a place like Arcata. Not much for jobs, you could work a
minimum wage, part-time job or go to the university. Other than a
movie theater, nothing much for entertainment and a couple of
mediocre
taco trucks was all the place could boast of for food. Still, Gina
kept me in the loop as to any new developments, knowing
from experience that my opinions were, by no means, permanent.
“I
told you about that place already,” she yelled from the bedroom.
I knew she probably had. Even in
Thailand, nothing happened in Arcata without Gina knowing via the
Lost Coast Outpost, an online paper that she read religiously, even
when she was living in places like Thailand or
Paraguay. Lately, I had been
trying to get her to be interested in some other place. The
mountains, the desert, somewhere back east, I wanted her to feel at
home when we went back to the States, but I wanted to find my own
home, a place that would be ours. I studied maps and job postings,
but the best thing I could come up with was Monterey, which looked:
A:
expensive, not San Francisco expensive, but still expensive and
B:
touristy. I wanted to go find the Monterey beyond Cannery
Row, which I’d been to a few times already to visit the aquarium.
When I learned there was another town, away from the Row with its
taffy shops and chain seafood restaurants, I wanted to see it. The
bay looked incredible, kelp forests, seals and water calm enough to
get into and snorkel around once in a while (with a wetsuit). I’d
tried to convince Gina that Monterey would be worth moving to. I
talked about the place so much, she finally had to agree. It wasn’t
a battle easily won, but finally she’d agreed to check it out when
we got back. And now, here I was, sabotaging myself, expressing
interest in this new venue in Arcata. But, reading about the place, I
couldn’t help but to think about the quiet, easily walkable town
surrounded by all kinds of natural splendor. Maybe, with the addition
of this venue, it wouldn’t be so bad to live there after all.
Living in a place like
Thailand where the daytime
temperature never dropped below 87, certainly made the temperate
Pacific climate seem more desirable.
When we came back to the States, we
juggled the options of San
Francisco, Monterey and the areas in between before deciding to move
to Seattle. We flew into San Francisco, just because it was the place
we’d left from a year earlier and the pull of inertia was too
strong to ignore. We stayed in the area a few days before heading
north. The plan was to stay with Gina’s folks in Arcata for a few
days, collect our stuff and continue north to Seattle, but, after a
few days in Arcata, I no longer felt like going anywhere. I couldn’t
imagine doing better than Arcata. The little college town was
peaceful and, because I’d been there so many times, it felt
familiar. In the early morning, I’d make coffee and ride my bike to
the beach. In the late afternoon, I’d walk back into the forest, or
down to the marshland by the bay.
It was as anodyne as you could get after the noise and heat of urban
Southeast Asia.
There was also more to do now. One
of the theaters downtown was under new management and now played more
independent and foreign films and there was the new venue I’d
noticed that day on the internet. The place seemed to have a show
almost every night with
interesting-sounding bands.
I envisioned myself going there about once a week and getting to know
everyone, making friends.
After a week in Arcata, I went back
to San Francisco for a job fair. All the California Community
Colleges were hiring English teachers for the next academic year. I’d
been applying online for all these positions. I figured I’d get a
job anywhere I could and that acceptance of the place I lived would
follow. I didn’t want to live in a suburban area, but all the
places that were hiring seemed to be just beyond the pale of urban
settlement. There were schools near Napa, San Jose, San
Diego and Palm Springs. I
applied for them all, thinking I’d increase my chances that way.
We left Arcata around noon, which,
given that it takes about 5-6 hours to reach San Francisco is the
worst time to leave.
We cruised through the redwoods for a few hours, almost completely
alone on the highway, but, as we neared Ukiah, the traffic began to
increase. We didn’t even make it to Santa Rosa before we were
bumper to bumper. We crawled into the city, through a haze of red
taillights. It took a few hours and, by the time we went over the 580
bridge, I had to pee like crazy. In the East Bay, we hit more traffic
and it looked like it stretched all the way down to San Jose. I
looked out the window in a kind of wild desperation and saw, on the
looks of my fellow commuters: the most bland type of utter
resignation. Everyone looked like workers before computer screens in
an office under sputtering florescent lights. I’d had to contend
with the traffic of the Bay Area before as a delivery driver, but I’d
never been so irritated by it then.
After spending days walking along the quiet streets of Arcata, the
excess of humanity, packing itself in, was not something I found
exciting. It was an irritant and nothing more, which
happens when you have to pee as bad as I did.
Sunday morning, I woke up, put on my
suit jacket, combed my hair, picked up the folder with my resumes and
made my way to the BART Station. Early in
the morning, there was no one
around and the train was
almost empty. I watched a
damp morning Hayward drift
past the windows. Every area along the tracks that wasn’t a crowded
neighborhood, was filled with tents or a construction site. People
were living everywhere and they were still packing them in. Even this
far from the City, one-bedroom apartments were renting for 4,000.00 a
month, hence the tents which, in a sense, were free.
I got off at Colosseum and waited
for the shuttle to the hotel hosting the job fair. Another
enterprising woman was waiting with me in a suit that looked
tailored. We both looked a little desperate: Sunday morning on San
Leandro St. constantly looking south for an arriving bus. We used the
situation to have the empty, practicing talk one has with fellow
job-seekers before an interview, both of us using the opportunity to
sound ourselves out, to tune our voices to professional amicability,
not listening. It was exactly the kind of conversation you expect two
people in suits on Sunday morning to be having.
The morning fog burned off and the
day warmed up. I checked in at
the hotel and got my name
tag. I was surprised to see it had a barcode on it. I hadn’t
expected to need a barcode for anything. Inside the conference
center, lines of tables were set up, each with a different banner on
a board behind it and a pile of free pens or mints. I went to each
one advertising for an English or ESL position, thinking maybe I’d
gain some insight as to why we were all there. Obviously, these
colleges had plenty of
applicants. There were many more people in the room by nine o’clock
than there were jobs being offered. Why did they need to have this
job fair? No one I met actually worked in these departments, in fact
their jobs were just to promote their college at these job fairs,
they knew very little about the jobs they promoted. I thought I’d
have an edge given that I’d already applied
for the jobs online. That way, I thought, I’d look
serious and no one could brush me off by telling me to go home and
apply. But, when I approached each booth, introducing myself and
saying I’d already applied for the position I only received bland
encouragements and free pens and
then they’d pull out the scanner to get my barcode,
never asking my name. I’d
hoped to meet relevant people and make connections, but I was only
having more of the type of conversation I’d had at the bus stop;
empty, full of false encouragement. We were all looking for a way in,
but the room was full of petitioners, no gatekeepers. It was like a
Kafka story; we walked around the dim room, asking if anyone had seen
the key, but there was no door, let alone a key to open it. When I
left, the sun was shining and the day had grown warm. I took of my
jacket and had a conversation with a fellow job-seeker about our
Peace Corps experiences.
It was a real conversation and by
far the most poignant thing I took away from the experience.
That afternoon, driving back to
Arcata I felt like I was escaping a palpable cloud of indifference.
Moving north, as the population thinned and the rents went down, the
sense of competition decreased. The spaces between buildings grew
until the buildings themselves became unimportant and scuttled by
under the immensity of the landscape. The first time I’d made the
drive from SF to Arcata, it had been the opposite, the immensity of
the landscape unnerved me. The trees and the hills seemed to swell
with desolation, moving north, I felt more and more despondent. When
I reached Arcata, I felt lonesome enough to cry. It was summer and
the town was quiet, almost ghostly compared to SF. I parked by the
marsh and walked a few blocks, watching my feet, hardly looking
around. I was full of sighs. I left after an hour or so and felt
relief to be returning to the city. Now
the situation was nearly reversed.
When I came back after my vocational sortie down to the Bay Area, I
felt the familiarity of returning to the place in which one lives. I
wasn’t just in another place, I was back where I lived. Exiting the
highway and driving down the quiet streets that had once so greatly
alienated me, I now felt at home. The feeling didn’t really
surprise me; I guess I’d been expecting it.
About a month later, we found a nice apartment where the town fades
into the ocean, broken up by diary farms and large, flat parcels of
land. I took a job working as a delivery driver for a bakery while I
looked for teaching work. I was able to wrestle a part-time position
from the university’s International English Language Institute just
before it was closed down to accommodate budget cuts. The hours at
the bakery were mercifully flexible and I stayed on, working the
weekends. My weekdays were mellow. I woke up early, drank coffee,
watched the clouds pull back from the mountains in the weak morning
sun. I went to teach my class and then stayed half the day planning
the next lesson. Sometimes in the evening, we’d bike out to the
ocean and watch the sunset. A few times we tried to go out to do
something in the evening, but the best I could do was a movie. The
fatigue from waking up early would start to swell under my eyes and
pop in my joints by about 10. On the weekends, I was getting up much
earlier to drive the bakery delivery truck. My alarm went off at 3:30
and even though I got home no later than 1, I was usually inept for
the rest of the day. I couldn’t nap, but I looked forward to bed
with the vigor of a man who is functioning at half-capacity and wants
to restart the day, hoping for something better. It was under these
circumstances that MDC came to town.
I’d been working at the bakery for a few months. The brief job at
the university was coming to an end. I had a little more free time
and didn’t feel so pressured. Of course, the show was on a Sunday
night. One of the disadvantages of living in a remote place is that
you know the band is stopping over between SF and Portland. The shows
are always on odd days, Sundays, Wednesdays, Mondays. I had to work
early on Monday, but I’d let this serve as my excuse too many times
before. Looking at the MDC flyer outside the co-op, I told myself,
when the time came, I was going to go. Thirty-five wasn’t too old.
Only a year or two before, I’d been out closing the bars, howling
at the moon. Maybe I wouldn’t stay out all night, but I could
certainly make it to the show. It started at 6:30. It’d probably be
over before 10. There wold be
no good reason not to go.
After working for a few days at the
bakery, I woke up early Sunday morning. I started to make coffee in
the kitchen, but watching the sunlight spread out from its perch at
the top of the mountains, I decided to wake Gina and to get outside.
When I’m working a lot, it’s hard not to be aware of the
stopwatch ticking along beneath the quiet of a Sunday morning.
We walked down 11th
street to the bagel shop, where we squinted into the sun and drank
steaming coffee. It was only us and the workers at the bagel shop.
The rest of the town gradually woke up and stumbled down the hill in
the same slouching way we had. Soon the patio was nearly full of
other patrons drinking their own steaming coffees, but most of them
having been smart enough to bring sun glasses.
The coffee began to kick in and as
the patio got crowded, we walked up the hill just to take a walk
somewhere. At the top, I stopped and looked back toward the bay.
“I’m going to go to that show, I think.” I told Gina and
myself, in case there’d been any doubt. With her hand over her
brow, shielding her eyes from the sun, she looked at me and asked
“What show?”
I reminded her about the MDC show.
She said it was great if I wanted to go, but I could tell by the way
she said it she had her doubts I’d be able to maintain my
dedication all day. I responded shaking my head, as we walked back
home. No, it wouldn’t be hard to do. Instead of winding down with a
book at 5:30, I’d put on my jacket and walk the 7 or 8 blocks down
to the venue. When I got there, the opening bands would be starting
and maybe I’d even go over to that pizza place and get a beer.
There wasn’t anything difficult about this, but just to be sure,
when we got back home, I made some more coffee and stretched out on
the couch with the newspaper comics, reasoning that the relaxation
and caffeine might keep up my motivation.
After lying around and reading for a
while, I got up and we took a walk around the neighborhood. Despite
the coffee, I was already starting to feel tired, but I was relaxed.
We walked past the farmyards with pens full of languorous calves and
returned their mooning looks. We stood by the fence long
enough to cause some of the more inquisitive to take a few steps
toward us, but none would come up to the shock of sweet green grass
that Gina held out coaxingly. The sun was coming down to the horizon
and the light was dampening with the hulks of wet-looking clouds
coming down from the mountains. Insects and frogs were beginning to
chirp and the distant sound of traffic in town was fading as the
grocery store parkinglots gradually emptied out and the cars returned
home with Sunday-evening groceries consisting mostly of snacks, as no
one wants to cook on Sunday evening. The lights came up in the houses
we passed, as boxes of pita chips and sleeves of cookies were opened
and cardboard lids were peeled back from clingy pints of ice cream.
The blue flame of television sprang up in otherwise dark windows up
and down the blocks, burning through the cotton fog of the evening.
Our shoes scuffed on the damp tufts
of grass sprouting from the broken panels of sidewalk as we
drifted back home, leg-sore after too long a walk, but content to
have spent the late afternoon in a meaningful way. The need for a
washing machine had been reintroduced into the conversation. It was a
topic that had been frequently revisited, but with no result other
than the nagging feeling that, at some point, I was going to need to
go and buy a washing machine, an activity that still seemed so
impossibly adult to me. I had a difficult time believing I’d be
able to pull it off. I imagined
going to a department store
and wheeling the thing up to
the counter.
“Can I help you, sir?”
“I’d like to buy this.”
“First I’ll need to see your
ID.” Confused, I’d hand the clerk my ID,
thinking maybe you needed ID for large purchases only to be told:
“I’m sorry, sir. I’ll have to ask a sales associate to return
the washing machine. K-Mart has a strict 37-and-up policy for all
adult appliances such as ovens, dishwashers and, sadly, washing
machines. I’ll have to ask you to leave it there.”
I knew I could buy booze, rent cars,
buy plane tickets and fly around the world unaccompanied, but
somehow, buying a washing machine just didn’t seem like something
I’d be allowed to do, perhaps just because it never would’ve
occurred to me to do it.
We’d been talking about buying a
washing machine for weeks, but I was finding it really easy to put
off. ‘I’ll have to measure the door,’ I’d say, making an
excuse for why we couldn’t just go buy the damn thing. I hate
making any kind of large purchase, not necessarily because I’m
cheap, but because I always feel like I’m going to get the one
that’s broken and then I’m going to have a 400-dollar mess on my
hands and still no way
to wash anything at home.
We batted these thoughts back and
forth as we walked home in the rarefied
light of a clear and breezy
evening. The wind had picked up out in the ocean and seemed to be
blowing a halloween-orange light across the sky, back toward the
mountains, pasted against the sky like a cardboard cutout.
“I guess I’m not going to the
MDC
show,” I sighed as we turned onto our street. As I said it, I felt
relieved.
I’d been so worried about copping out, I hadn’t spent much time
wondering if I really felt like going. I realized now I didn’t have
much desire to walk over to the venue and wait for the show to start,
trading commonplaces with whoever happened to be standing next to me.
Maybe it’s just me, but I’ve always found it very difficult to
strike up meaningful conversations at those things. There’s too
much focus on the stage. Even
before the bands come out, everyone’s just waiting and people get
nervous and fidgety when they have to wait. At least I do.
Back in the house, I kicked off my
shoes, tumbled onto the couch and listened to competing internal
voices of relief and disappointment. I
knew I didn’t want to go, but I couldn’t quite forgive myself for
it. I’d known this was going to happen and still I couldn’t avoid
it. I was also thinking about how I needed to get around to buying
this washing machine. Here I was, Sunday night, neither enjoying
myself nor accomplishing anything, just sitting on the couch feeling
tired as I so often seemed to do.
“The hell with this,” I suddenly
announced, getting to my
feet. “Let’s go get this damn washing machine.” I went over to
the closet and grabbed the tape measure that had been there all
along. “31 inches,” I said measuring the door. “We can’t get
anything over 31 inches wide. Let’s go.” I threw the tape measure
on the couch.
So, Sunday at the end of April,
2018, instead of going to see Millions of Dead Cops play
just down the street from my house,
I found myself standing in the K-Mart appliance
department, talking to the
sales clerk—who was probably a good 10 years younger than me—about
washing machine warranties. He didn’t seem to know if there was a
warranty or not so, at some point, I shifted my line of inquiry,
asking instead if we bought it, if he’d help us put it in the car.
This he was able to agree to. “Good enough,” I announced, feeling
like a millionaire on a spree. “We’ll take it.”
The clerk went and got a dolly and
helped up wheel the thing to the front of the store. The place was
nearly empty, like, I suppose, most K-Marts these days, but there was
a Mexican couple, walking around with their smartphone on a video
call. As they waved the phone around, I could see a face watching
intently from a dim room,
presumably in Mexico.
“Mira este,” the man exclaimed
holding the phone to a stuffed animal. “Un osito; ocho dolares.”
“Ay!” his wife yelled grabbing
the phone and bringing it over to a display of jewelry. Que lindo,
verdad? Veinte-cinco-cinquenta.”
Gradually the couple and their satellite guest moved deeper into the
store, all the while, pointing at things and saying how much they
cost. Mostly. They
went for the high-profile end-rack items, the blue-light specials of
yesteryear, but occasionally, they’d reach into an aisle and pluck
something out to coo over and say the price of the item like some
kind of incantation necessary for owning it. Watching their
excitement over retail, over K-mart fer
God’s sake, I felt better about throwing my money away on the
washing machine. “We’d spend more than this in a year of going to
the laundromat.” I announced to myself and let the clerk wheel the
washing machine into the check-out line.
No one asked for my ID. No one even
seemed to be interested in our enormous purchase. We
paid and led the clerk
out to the car, where he and I stuffed the box into the hatchback.
The wind had died down and the orange haze was spreading out over the
sky, extinguishing in the cold mass of violet clouds scudding in the
from the east. I started the
car and thought of the Mexican couple, by now they’d probably made
it to the back of the store where all the appliances were. They were
probably holding their phone up to the floor model of the washing
machine I’d bought and exclaiming the price. Somehow, this thought
gave me the confidence to drive away and take the thing home.
There are few things as
anticlimactic as removing the blank white, metal cube of a washing
machine from its box. I’d like to tell you that I put on an
MDC record as
I unwrapped my adulthood, but the idea never even occurred to me. By
the time I got home and got the thing in the door, it was already
late and I still had
to get up in the morning. I pushed the washing machine against
a wall and tossed
the shreds of cardboard out of the way. Just down the street, kids
were flailing around and slamming into each other through
the opening acts of a show they’d remember for the rest of their
lives and I was going to bed.