My mom had
rescheduled her flight several time before the coronavirus took off
and, in the end, we decided it would be best if she just canceled her
visit to come out and see her granddaughter.
“Don’t worry,
ma,” I told her. “We’ll come out and see you, instead.”
But I didn’t
really have any plan in place for doing so other than a sudden
opening my summer calendar where my trip to Glacier National Park had
been canceled. United Airlines had given me a credit for $300 after
I’d learned that most of the park wasn’t going to be open. I
could’ve used the credit to buy tickets to Michigan. I had the
money to make the trip and I had the time but I wasn’t sure I had
the moral authority.
Where we live, up
in sparsely-populated Humboldt County, we’ve been spared the brunt
of the COVID pandemic. For one thing, there’s very little to do
here indoors. Our usual recreation involves drifting down foggy
morning beaches where the water is ice-cold, but the scenery is
majestic or hiking through mountains which have no superlatives and
are near no population centers but are, none-the-less inspiring and
wild. That is, the whole point of living in a place like this is
‘getting-away’. No one comes here to stand in a crowd. Sure we’re
lacking a bunch of amenities that you’d find in places with crowds,
but it’s a trade-off and one that showed itself to be advantageous
after the pandemic. They even had spots on the local radio stations
comparing our county’s numbers with other counties across
California ending in the suggestion to stay local for the summer
because this place was so comparatively safe.
Unfortunately,
I’ve always been lousy at heeding warnings. I’m restless and I
guess I still have a little too much of that teenage feeling of
invincibility. In May, after the semester ended, I furtively sneaked
down to the Bay Area to camp for a night and go see a friend I hadn’t
seen since Christmas. I spent a night in the city, but I didn’t
feel guilty about it until I came back, wondering if I was carrying
anything back up to the pristine redwoods. I felt like patient zero
on the drive back. But I kept my distance in the grocery store and
washed my hands a lot and the county’s numbers never started going
up, so I felt like it’d been ok.
The greater
challenge came when my mom started calling, barely managing to hide
her urgent need to see her granddaughter. Since she’d canceled her
flight, the need to connect seemed to have grown disproportionately.
The time that had gone by compounded with the distance between us was
beginning to tell on her. And, in truth, I couldn’t help but to
feel like the Skype calls were becoming such a thin approximation for
interacting with a toddler. I think the biggest blow came when my
daughter started trying to offer my mom food and we had to explain to
her that it couldn’t be passed through the computer screen. After
that, she lost interest in talking with grandma and I think we all
saw Skype for the interactive ruse it was.
Almost
unwittingly, I started looking at tickets, much the way I look at
home prices and available jobs. Such an activity is the internet’s
substitute for contemplation. I don’t go for long walks and think
about finding a home, I scroll through catalogs and let the
possibilities present themselves, only then do I bother to think
about whether anything I’ve found would be tenable. It’s as if
everything has been reduced to list of items, a menu for life and we
only need continually find something to select from this menu.
And select I did.
One day I came across a reasonable direct flight. Covid had brought
the prices way down and I had my credit to use. But rather than think
about whether it was something I should do, I put the onus on my
wife—as I usually do when faced with a burden either of thought or
deed.
“Hey,” I
yelled from the computer. My wife was in the other room trying to
change our daughter’s diaper and at the same time attending a
dinner cooking in the kitchen. I’d been on Duolingo—which had
become some kind of important ‘work’ for me over the summer.
“There’s a flight to Detroit for $250. Should I buy it?” I
shouted, without even being sure I was being heard. When no one
answered, I sighed heavily, as if I’d been put out and got up from
my chair.
In the living
room, my wife was wrestling with our 18-month-old daughter, trying to
get her into a diaper while trying to get a large container of oats
away from her that she’d managed to grab from the pantry when no
one was looking. Instead of helping, I just repeated my question from
the doorway, looking at the chaotic scene as if it were something
totally removed from my life, like watching crows on a telephone wire
or my neighbor mowing the lawn.
“Hey. There’s
a flight to Detroit for only 250 bucks. Should I book it?”
My wife looked
back, unbelieving that I’d be asking something so superfluous when
whatever is in the kitchen was clearly starting to burn, but rather
than chide me, she prepared to think over the logistics of the
situation that I’d neglected in my impetuousness when the top
suddenly came off the oats and they showered over the living room
carpet, the couch, the rug and the children’s books scattered all
over the floor.
“Sure.” She
said, with a deadpan delivery. “Book it.”
I wasn’t sure
if she meant it, but I went to book the flight anyway. $250 was just
too good of a deal. I meant to help clean up the oatmeal, but by the
time I finished with the booking, it was already done and dinner was
on the table.
Gradually, I
began to think about the trip. Between bouts of Duolingo, I had time
to contemplate what flying would mean. With a toddler, we’d have a
member of our traveling party not wearing a mask—there’s no way
she would’ve kept one on for a minute let alone 6 hours—which
would make my wife’s and my mask useless in avoiding contact since
my daughter would be breathing all the sneezes and coughs of the
plane’s passengers and when we got off she’d be breathing right
into our faces and into the faces of my parents and my grandmother,
who we were also planning on seeing. They were all healthy people,
but I didn’t want to be the one to test their health. And what
about my daughter? While babies were usually spared sever Covid
symptoms, I was hearing more reports of the Multi-System Inflammatory
Disease which was infecting children who’d been exposed. On top of
that, there was the social question of travel. I couldn’t help but
to notice that when I saw people obviously on vacation in my small
community, I wanted to roll my eyes. Even up here in the rural
redwoods where tourism is fairly important and it’s easy to stay
away from people, I resented those who’d made the choice to drive
here and have a look around when they obviously didn’t have to. I
puzzled over how I could feel this way when I was planning on flying
across the country to do something that a lot of people would
probably consider even more
indulgent than camping in the forests of northern California.
But that’s a
big part of the way the world is now We’re willing to give
ourselves a pass for reckless behavior because we know our reasons.
But, for others, we’re inclined to assume the worst. I had
to go back to Michigan because my folks were missing my daughter’s
toddler-hood. The last time they’d seen her she’d been crawling
and babbling and now she was running and sharing her food. If we
waited until the end of the pandemic, who knows where she’d be
developmentally. But when I saw the people with out-of-state plates,
I assumed they were just taking a trip because they’d gotten bored.
So with this selfish logic in place, I decided we had to go. My mom
was calling almost daily asking what we wanted to eat while we were
there and my dad was pulling all the old baby toys he could find out
of the basement. They sent
me pictures; the yard looked like playground.
I told myself I was doing it
for them. I told myself other people couldn’t understand—couldn’t
judge—my motives and it was easier to live with the decision.
In the week
leading up to our departure, I found myself avoiding mention of the
trip to anyone I spoke to. I was frequently doing some syntactical
juggling to avoid mentioning it. “Gonna take a little time off,”
I told everyone at work when getting shifts covered. I even went so
far as to tell a few people I was taking a camping trip, which was
true in a way since I was doing a little camping before we left, but
drawing these two days into nine was a pretty bold lie. Again, it
came down to the personal reason I had for traveling, to allow my
parents to see their granddaughter. This wasn’t something I felt I
could expect anyone else to understand. Of course I realized that
everyone would have some justifiable reason for travel like
this and I began to wonder how many other people were creating
reasons for themselves to get on a plane that they weren’t telling
anyone else about?
I got my answer
at the airport. Not in Humboldt, because this airport is tiny and
under-funded, especially now that United has canceled about half
their daily flights here. But at SFO, I guessed the numbers to be
about half, or a little over half what they usually were. I could be
way off here. Canceled flights could have artificially brought up the
number of people in the airport or perhaps it was only in the
domestic terminal and international flights were different, but
seeing all these people at the airport made me feel better. I wasn’t
the only one taking a risk here. Other families chased small,
unmasked children through the terminals, young couples shared drinks
in the airport bars—many incongruously still open—and harried
professional in suits yammered into smart phones slightly louder
through their masks while waiting in line for Starbucks. The scene in
the airport was pretty much the same as it always was and seeing it,
I couldn’t help but to wonder if this was part of the reason that
COVID numbers in America were still rising. Perhaps it is not so much
that we are selfish, freedom-obsessed dolts, but rather that we’re
all able to find legitimate personal reasons for taking the risks
when we dig deep enough and that, in the same way, we think we can be
careful enough not to spread anything when we return.
Our flight
schedule had been changed due to cancellations and we had to catch
three, rather than two flights, which made for a slightly longer day,
but our connections were smooth and short at each airport. We stopped
at O’Hare to find the place looking as busy as ever, unlike SFO, it
didn’t look affected at all. It probably would’ve been surreal to
contemplate the sea of masked faces surging past us, but by then we’d
become accustomed to it.
Despite the
enforced social distancing, everyone in the airport seemed to share a
kind of solidarity in finding themselves traveling during such a
troubled time. My daughter, who’s spent most of her life walking
rural roads and lingering near cow pastures, was overjoyed to see so
many people and she ran around the airport waving at everyone who
passed us. Most of these people eagerly waved back to her. Seeing
this one innocent and unmasked face in amid the backdrop of anonymous
rushed travel seemed to delight a great number of people and I
couldn’t help but to feel proud of having such an enthusiastically
happy daughter who found no difficulty in making strangers happy.
Of course, the
people she made the happiest were my folks. When we arrived in
Detroit, they were both obviously very glad to see her after so much
time and remarked on how much she’d changed since they’d seen her
last. Although they’d seen her on Skype almost weekly, they had
very little idea what to expect in person and, like my ability to
search homes and jobs without thinking of actually moving or taking a
new job, my parents had been able to see their granddaughter without
really being able to learn much about her. This is perhaps the
problem with our information age in which ‘content’ has become a
byword for ‘filler’. If the objective has been met, say in being
able to converse with someone face-to-face, or walk around an old
neighborhood using Google Maps’ street view, than we can consider
the task fulfilled while, in reality, the heart of these interactions
is based on ‘content’ not in the fulfillment of the object. In
other words, it’s not enough to see. We must also feel and that’s
something which is more more difficult to simulate.
We managed to
stay pretty low key while in Michigan. I saw a couple of friends. We
stayed outside, but the impulse to embrace after a long absence was
too great. Again, I’m sure that most people are making this
exception for the people they care about; it’s a very difficult
temptation to resist.
Mostly, we hung
out in my folks’ backyard. My dad had set a swing up for my
daughter and she marveled at the possibility of having something only
found in the park only for her personal use. It would’ve been
difficult to get her away from it regardless of what was going on,
but given the circumstances, we were happy she’d found something to
distract her. The swing became the focal point of our visit. At any
moment, someone was out there with her and everyone else was
watching. There’s something healing in watching absolute
contentment. My daughter could’ve stayed out there all day and she
nearly did with everyone on shifts pushing her. Watching my mom push
my daughter on the swing, such a simple thing, the reason for the
risk seemed plain. We had to fulfill this human function. We had to
see each other in person.
If the fault was
anywhere, it was mine for moving across this vast country and having
a daughter was has grandparents who live 3,000 miles from each other.
Perhaps this pandemic will allow us to see that we have not yet
conquered the spaces that separate us, though we have made a valiant
effort with the mail, highways and internet. The space of America,
after nearly 100 years, is once again proving to be something
insurmountable. Many people of my generation, having lost their jobs
in distant cities and worried about their aging parents are moving
home again. Perhaps they, too have begun to feel all the space
between families weighing upon them at night when they are lying in
bed and tracing the steps of their lives.
…
Having already
done it, traveling back felt much less risky. After just one trip, it
felt routine and we slogged through the series of airports in reverse
to arrive back home, no longer with the eager forward momentum of
travelers, but with the perfunctory movements of someone making their
way home again. I tried to read. My daughter slept on my lap and woke
up and squirreled around before we landed back in SFO. At the gate
for the last flight, they made an announcement about fog that could
possible force the plane back. Even from the skies, the region where
we live has an impenetrability about it, behind the coastal range,
buried in the shadow of redwood slopes and the surging, tsunami-prone
sea. As the last flight dropped down toward our tiny airport and
entered a wave of wool-colored fog, I felt the traveler’s peace at
returning home and the anxiety about leaving was gone. We had gone to
challenge the space that both protects and alienates us: an American
tradition and, like all traditions, one not easily subdued.
I’m still
waiting for my test results, but already the distance that separates
me from everyone else, from the rest of America, has begun to
accumulate. At night I feel it weighing upon me and I watch the
planes crossing the skies, knowing that everyone up there felt it,
too and found a reason for defying it. I can only hope they all wash
their hands as much as I did.