Yesterday was our last trip to Ben Hurd’s. The kindly old Christmas Tree farmer, so much like a Santa figure himself with his white beard and unaffected friendly manner, died sometime last year, leaving the acres of Christmas pines, the two gigantic holly trees, and the porch with its focal stove as an item on his will to be bequeathed to the California Highway Patrol for whom he worked before turning to Christmas trees.
I reread The Catcher in the Rye around the holidays and still had Holden’s admonishment “people never notice anything” in my mind as I took my kids through the familiar rows to pick out a tree one last time. Before having children, I never bought a Christmas tree; it seemed odd to me that anyone without children would waste money on such an unnecessary item. When Gina and I celebrated our first Christmas together in Buenos Aires, I was disinterested in the subject enough to make her call home wondering if I was even planning to do anything on the hallowed 25th. This feeling of course being exacerbated by being 1000s of miles from home in a place where Dec. 25th is the official beginning of summer.
As a kid, my parents didn’t go anywhere consistent to pick up a tree in fact, try as I might, I can’t remember buying a single tree with them. God. I can remember cereal commercials from when I was a kid, but I can’t remember buying a Christmas tree? What a bad trick of my middle-aged mind.
Maybe we all remake our memories of Christmas when we have kids. We build up our own traditions, decide the ratios for the standards: Santa, cookies, décor, etc. For example, as a kid, throughout December, my mom was frequently baking cookies. They’d be on the table for anyone who wanted them. When my grandparents came over at some point during the season, my grandma brought cookies, too. For us, Christmas had a lot to do with the baking and eating of cookies. But, this isn’t really something I’m that interested in doing with my kids. Baking stresses me out on a good day, and with kids helping the mess gets unwieldly quickly. So, I ask my mom for cookies as my reoccurring present. Hers taste much better than mine anyway.
I like to see Christmas lights on houses, but I’m not going to put them up myself. I have a hard enough time doing the spider webbing for Halloween. It’s not like it’s an altogether Grinchy Christmas around here though. We have some traditions. One of which is to listen to a “Christmas Raps” LP from the 1980s that I found in some bargain crate when I was younger. We put it on while we decorate the tree. While I carry on another time-honored tradition, that of the dad largely absenting himself from these festivities to clean up the house. While my mom and I would put up the lights, or put on the ornaments, my dad was usually in the kitchen doing the dishes or something. I often wondered why he didn’t participate in the direct way my mom and I did; now as a dad myself, I understand: from the dad perspective, it’s impossible to see a task that needs to be done and not plunge into it. With the kids occupied, it’s the perfect time to clean up the kitchen—which is constantly on the verge of collapsing into a chaos of dishes, overflowing trash, and little pieces of this or that on the floor that my 9-month-old daughter will put in her mouth. I can participate in Christmas from over here, listening to Christmas Raps and occasionally taking a picture. But for now, let’s get to work on these dishes.
The one tradition that I never absented myself on was picking out a tree. Our first child—my oldest daughter— was born in November, so probably one of the first things we did as a newly expanded family was to buy a tree and when we did, we went to Ben Hurd’s.
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It doesn’t snow here. Maybe one morning every other year has a very light dusting that disappears by noon. My kids, who are barraged with Christmas images of ice and snow, sledding, snow men, etc. think of snow in a mythological sense and wonder aloud why they should be deprived of it. I try to explain to them that while snow does have some very beautiful aspects, it is a biproduct of a kind of miserable cold that they would not like, given as they are to not wearing enough clothing to adequately prepare for any temperature below 60 degrees. Of course, I was the same when I was a kid. All kids, for whatever reason, can’t stand the idea of a single superfluous article of clothing. When we get older, the situation becomes opposite. The kid’s thought: “Better leave that sweater at the playground, I don’t want to have to drag it around” becomes the adult’s: “better bring that sweater, I don’t want to be cold.” Of course, kids have smaller capacities for hauling stuff around. I felt so encumbered by a sweater in my arms when I was younger; it was like being shackled to a radiator or something. Now, I just put it in my backpack, or throw it in the backseat. Along with the kid’s extra clothes, I’ve usually got half a suitcase in tow when I go anywhere.
In coastal California, it rains in the winter. To my wife, Christmas is a cozy day in from a drizzling rain. To me, there is nothing Christmasy about rain except maybe very early in the morning, when it’s still dark outside and you can’t see it, but you can hear it clattering all over the place in the dark, making oily pools in the streets filled with distorted Christmas light. No sun has ever risen on a rain-scape that I’ve appreciated much. They have too much grey in them to excite any sense of appreciation in all but the parched desert dweller, iridated with a lifetime of sun, looking to extinguish some of it and hydrate.
After my daughter was born, and we went to get a tree. I was probably imaging a muddy fern-crowded forest with a couple of scraggly trees. Nothing to compare with the classic Christmas image of snow-dusted holly berries, the bright scent of pine on a cold breeze and, familiar sound of snow being stomped off from boots when people came in to pay for their trees, and the absolute magic of a hot drink when it’s that cold outside.
Ben Herd’s Christmas Tree Farm not only met my pessimistic expectations, it confirmed them. A clearing in a redwood forest. Ferns and mud all over, with scraggly trees. How could these farmed trees complete with the sequoia giants just a few feet away standing 100 feet tall and absorbing every last particle of nutrient from the soil? And yet, dammit if that place didn’t come to feel as Christmasy as Christmas Raps and the Pogues “Fairytale of New York” to me! As much as I appreciate the ideal Vermont scenario with snow, and brave green trees in the face of it, and draft horses or whatever, Christmas, at least the only part of it I’m really involved in, has become a fern crowded, muddy clearing the redwoods.
Maybe the first time we went, it was drizzling, with a low fog crowding the small trees and beading them with moisture and so it appears that way in memory. A fire going on the front porch, a place to dry off, have a cup of hot cider and chat a bit with the proprietor and whoever else was buying a tree that day. In reality, I think the last bunch of years we’ve gone, it has been a beautiful sunny day with a steam rising from the wet ground and the trees to refract the light into rainbow beams pointing to all the sacrosanct trees—scrawny as they may be. It didn’t match the traditional Christmas scene, and it wasn’t even necessarily cozy—as it could be in the rain—but it was beautiful, recalling spring rather than winter when everything is thawing out and waking up. The place, no matter how late you arrived in the day, always felt like it was just waking up.
The only thing that snagged on the picturesque scene was the people who came wearing clothes for the ski resort: pompomed ski caps, overstuffed coats, snow pants on the kids for god’s sake! It’s 60 degrees out here! But I guess, for some people, that’s how they make a winter, that’s how they make anything, put on the right clothes and there you are. But, being from Michigan, wearing a knit ski cap in 60-degree weather will never look anything but absent-minded to me.
So with Ben gone. This year the farm was volunteer-run. From what we picked up on, no one is likely to want to take it over. It’s not a very lucrative venture. Tend to a crop of trees all year to sell at $50 a pop really only works when you’ve got a retirement income to supplement.
My son kept choosing trees and then being on the verge of a tantrum if we didn’t pick that one; there was tree guys up in one of the redwoods, 100 feet up sawing down branches yelling to each other in Spanish. My daughter wanted to know when she’d be able to get the cookie they give you at the end, and then, once we finally picked out a tree and sawed it down, we discovered we didn’t bring the required cash to pay for it, so I had to drive 10 minutes back down the mountain to a grocery store to get cash back. By the time I got back, I just felt flustered, and, we had somewhere else to get to anyway, and off we went, leaving behind that first really established Christmas tradition, according to old Holden Caulfield, not having noticed anything.
That night, I had to ask my wife, she’d been going there since she was a little girl, and she’d returned to take her own children there. I wondered if she weren’t feeling a little sad, a little emptiness after her last visit. But while I was in the middle of asking her, our nine-month-old daughter woke up crying. My wife sighed, rolling over to pick her up. “I don’t know,” she said, “It’ll probably hit me next year.” And I went to sleep thinking about Holden Caulfield and what he would’ve been like with kids of his own and what he would’ve had to say about noticing things after calming tantrums, making assurances, and having to leave to get cash to pay for the tree. After you have kids, you sort of just farm out the noticing to them. They’re going to do so much more with it anyway.
We went home, put on Christmas Raps, dug out the decorations and ornaments, and I went over to watch from afar; capitalizing on the momentary distraction to wash the dishes. That might seem callous, but it’s the best place for a dad, watching, appreciating, remembering. And now that the tree’s up, I’ve been noticing the coming and going of these parking lot tree sales, a paltry string of lights, a wire cage of trees. There’s no atmosphere, no warm drink, nothing to even look at, hell, they probably even pick your tree out for you. I may not notice anything, I may have passed the torch to the next generation, I may be saddled with conflicting ideas about what Christmas even looks like, but there’s no way I’d buy a tree from a parking lot. That must only work for the people with enough imagination to wear ski caps in warm sunny weather.
I guess we’ll have to create a new tradition next year. I’m in favor of getting a permit and driving up the mountain and just sawing down our own damn tree. If we drive up high enough, there might even be snow.
Merry Christmas.

